I offer most luthier and guitar tech services for repairs, modifications, maintenance and custom instrument assemblies ("partscasters"), for all fretted instruments (electric and acoustic).
Electric Guitar or Bass setup for action and intonation - $35
Electric Guitar w/passive trem setup for action and intonation - $45
Electric Guitar w/locking trem setup for action and intonation - $55
Acoustic Guitar or Bass setup for action and intonation - $35
Mandolin, Banjo setup for action and intonation - $35
Fender or Fender style 6 string straight or curved nuts (1/8") - $50
All Gibson style 6 string and acoustic nuts (3/16" or 1/4") - $60
Mandolin or banjo acoustic nuts - $60
All 12 string nuts - $70
4, 5 or 6 string vintage cow bone or black water buffalo horn - $50
12 string vintage cow bone or black water buffalo horn - $60
Pickups & Electronics
Pickup Install (passive, solid body) - $25/first p/u, $10/each additional p/u
Pickup Install (active, solid body) - $35/first p/u, $15/each additional p/u
Hollow and Semi-Hollow Instruments - $20 minimum added surcharge for ANY type work
Acoustic Guitar Transducer/Piezo Pickup Install - $50 (but can be higher)
LR Baggs Active I-Beam Installation - $50
K&K Pure Western Pickup Installation - $50
K&K Pure Western Pickup Installation (includes pickup) - $150
K&K Pure Western Pickup Installation (includes pickup w/volume control) - $185
JLD - Acoustic Flat Top
JLD Bridge Doctor - $80, installed (includes screw mount JLD)
Fret End Dress (non-maple fingerboard) - $30
Fret End Dress (maple/finished fingerboard) - $35
Fret Level & Crown (non-maple fingerboard) - $100
Fret Level & Crown (maple/finished fingerboard) - $120
Refret unbound non-maple fingerboard - $220
Refret bound non-maple fingerboard - $250
Refret maple/finished unbound fingerboard, no sanding - $240
Refret maple/finished unbound fingerboard, sanding, matte/semi-gloss refinish - $275
Refret maple/finished unbound fingerboard, sanding, full mirror gloss refinish - $350
Refret maple/finished bound fingerboard - add $50
NOTE: For EVO frets, add $40.
~ (all refrets include a full level & crown & polish) ~
Assembly & Modification Services
Instrument Assembly - $35 (typical - can be higher)
Bone Nut - $50 (typical - can be higher)
Electronics Wiring - $35 (typical - can be higher)
Final Setup - $35 (typical - can be higher)
Custom routing, drilling, gluing and tweaking of both bodies and necks - email or call to discuss.
Setup for Action and Intonation
Electric guitars and basses typically have a wide latitude of adjustments - truss rod, bridge, string saddles, bolt on neck tweaking, and perhaps the nut. Setups can run higher in price for special guitar considerations such as "weird" unorthodox bridges, 12 strings, B-benders, multi necks, etc.
Acoustic instruments typically have a very small latitude of non-invasive adjustments, basically limited to the truss rod (if present), saddle height, and perhaps the nut.
"Partscaster" instrument assembly typically includes joining the neck and body, installing tuners and string trees, pickugard/pickup installation, bridge and tailpiece - all based on hardware costs, work time and complexity. Intstalling and fitting a nut is a separate assembly function, as is pickup and electronics wiring. Body wood routing for pickups, controls, internal battery, PCB board, etc. all require an additional charge, also based on work time and complexity. NOTE: there is a minimum $20 added surcharge for any electronics work on hollow and semi-hollow instruments!
Pickup & Electronics
Pickup installation/removal, electronics rewiring, changing pots, switches, jacks, custom wiring, etc., are priced based on hardware costs, work time and complexity. Body wood routing for pickups, controls, internal battery, PCB board, etc. all require an additional charge, also based on work time and complexity. NOTE: there is a minimum $20 added surcharge for any electronics work on hollow and semi-hollow instruments!
Installed, cut and set up to the string gauge of your choice. Nut material choices are either ivory/amber vintage bone or black African water buffalo horn.
Installed, cut and set up to the string gauge of your choice. Saddle material choices are either ivory/amber vintage bone or black African water buffalo horn.
Fret End Dress - Flush file, round and polish fret ends that have "sprouted" due to fretboard wood drying out and shrinking.
Fret Level & Crown - If the fret divots and flat spots are deeper than 30% the height of the original crown height, it's really time for a refret. There are different schools of thought and action regarding fret wear. If the wear doesn't bother playability or action or tone, some folks just leave well enuf alone and wait 'til the frets become an issue, and typically that's the time for a refret. Others prefer to get one or two L&C's done before a refret is required in order to keep the playability and action consistent (as the frets really wear down, the only compensation is to raise the action to help kill the buzzing). Just some things to consider.
Refret - All refrets include a level and crown and high fret polish. If the fingerboard is maple, and you wish the board to be sanded level, you'll have a choice of leaving the board raw (no charge), tung oiled, or refinished. I specialize in refretting unbound maple fingerboards without the need to refinish.
Frets can be of most any crown dimension you prefer and I carry a wide assortment of sizes in stock. I only use 18% German nickel silver hard frets. As with most techs and luthiers, I won't work on stainless steel frets - when proper tools for handling stainless steel becomes available, I'll offer to work with them, but so far no tool manufacturer is offering luthier cutters, files and abrasives that will work properly and have a decent life span with stainless steel.
If the new frets have crowns that are higher than the original new frets, a new nut will probably be needed since the current nut slots will be too low for the new frets. I only use either vintage unbleached cow bone or African water buffalo horn nut materials, installed with the string gauge of your choice. If the neck in question is a bolt on, but not licensed Fender neck, I'll need the entire guitar in order to install a new nut.
If the guitar has a bolt-on neck licensed Fender neck, I don't need the entire guitar to do a refret, just the neck. If you send off the entire guitar, it'll get setup with new strings, all at no charge.
I offer hand rubbed and buffed Min-Wax Wipe On polyU sealer finish for unfinished necks and bodies, over unfilled natural or stained raw wood. These are very *thin* coats - each separated by a light buffing. This produces a satin or near semi-gloss finish. No "mirror" hi-gloss finishes, no solid color opaque finishes. NO NITROCELLULOSE FINISHES. I don't fill the wood grain - close grained woods such as alder and maple are typically not affected, open grained woods such as ash, korina and mahogany show the grain "pin holes" when looked close or at an angle in good light. IMO, a light and durable finish allows the wood to better vibrate and keeps from building up a thick, heavy, dull, sonic killing finish "overcoat". These simple finishes are durable and it's easy to repair the inevitable scratches and dings that all guitars acquire - simply re-apply some clear (even clear nail polish works well) to the scratch or ding. I do not advocate applying any "protection" over the finish - no waxes or resin agents - this will only make repairs tough to complete. Clean with a slightly damp rag - for real stubborn dirt, use a bit of naphtha (lighter fluid) on a paper towel. You can always have your guitar wood finished elsewhere and shipped to me for assembly.
Neck, stained and clear coated, semi-satin - $50/non-maple fingerboard, $70/maple fingerboard.
Body, stained and clear coated, semi-satin - $70/non-bound, $80/bound.
For professional high gloss mirror finishing of bodies and necks, please visit GWhizAir
FretTech Guitar Tech Services
58 Linden Avenue
Park Ridge, NJ 07656